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Ravenglass, Muncaster and Eskdale
At the coastal end lies Ravenglass where three rivers meet (Esk, Irt, and Mite) to form an estuary and natural harbour. From being an important Roman port and fishing town where ships once docked at the end of its main street, Ravenglass is now better known as a terminus for the Ravenglass & Eskdale steam railway or La’al Ratty.
A little inland stands Muncaster Castle, ancient family seat of the Pennington family with colourful spring gardens, a renowned owl centre, a celebrated ‘fool’ and ghosts aplenty to keep visitors amused for hours. Nearby is Waberthwaite, famous for Richard Woodall’s hams, bacons and Cumberland Sausage that are regularly despatched to the Queen.
This is the land of Bronze Age settlements, Roman forts, Anglian crosses, Viking remains, Norman churches, medieval mills and many other hidden delights awaiting discovery in this rich and welcoming corner of Cumbria.
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Eskdale
The green fields and woodlands of the valley of Eskdale, complete with the sparkling thread of the river Esk, penetrate deep into the central Lakeland fells. In the heart of this lovely valley is the small village of Boot, home to a working corn mill, three real-ale pubs and a micro-brewery.
Muncaster
A little inland stands Muncaster Castle, ancient family seat of the Pennington family with colourful spring gardens, a renowned owl centre, a celebrated ‘fool' and ghosts aplenty to keep visitors amused for hours.
Seascale
Seascale is a small coastal town in the Western Lake District. Situated between Whitehaven and Millom it is the perfect stop off when exploring this beautiful part of the Lake District.
Wasdale
The mountains around Wasdale Head are arguably one of the finest mountain landscapes in Britain and grandest of all of these fine mountains are the twin peaks of Scafell and Scafell Pike.
Although Neolithic flints have been found in the sand dunes around Ravenglass, it is Bronze Age settlers who provided evidence of their occupation of the higher ground. For the Romans the natural harbour at Ravenglass, became an important port around 79 BC. Little remains of the fort as much of its stone was used to build Ravenglass and was further despoiled when the Furness Railway was driven through the western defences, but the remains of the old bath house are still standing at Walls Castle. A Roman road advanced through Eskdale to link with Hardknott (Mediobogdum) at the head of the valley thereafter continuing through Little Langdale to the fort at Ambleside (Galava). Its position on an elevated spur hemmed in by mountains inspired a description of ‘an enchanted fortress in the air'.
During the Dark Ages, Celts and Angles lived in the area; the latter leaving their legacy in the form of intricately patterned stone crosses. It was Norsemen who established homesteads and enclosures for their livestock. Waberthwaite is of Norse origin (Wyburgh's clearing) as is Brotherilkeld at the head of Eskdale. The Norse also left their mark in the form of carved crosses and distinctively shaped hogback tombstones - the best examples being at Gosforth Church. Just above the village of Boot, a gully in the fellside marks the site of Nab Gill iron ore mine (NY 175 015), which exploited a wide vein of haematite (iron ore). The ore was commercially mined from the 1870s but enjoyed only a short period of prosperity. The remains of an incline, mine office and smithy can be seen from the track above Eskdale Mill.
At the base of the slope, a disused trackway and platform of the Ravenglass & Eskdale Railway can still be discerned. This much-loved railway (or La'al Ratty) was first opened in 1875 to carry iron ore from the mine at Boot to Ravenglass (where its freight was transferred to the Furness Line), but had a chequered history. After closure in 1913, it was re-opened as a narrow gauge railway in 1916 and found a new market carrying granite. The quarries closed in the 1950s and the line once again fell into disuse, but in 1960 a group of railway enthusiasts stepped in to save it. The Ravenglass & Eskdale Railway has since become one of Lakeland's most loved attractions, providing an unforgettable experience through the glorious Eskdale countryside.
La’al Ratty
La’al Ratty is Cumbrian dialect for ‘little track’, referring to the narrow-gauge (15 inch/38 cm) track of the Ravenglass & Eskdale Railway.
This narrow-gauge railway has become one of Cumbria’s much-loved attractions, providing an unforgettable steam-driven trip through Eskdale to delight young and old alike. The line was built in 1875 to bring iron ore from the mines in Eskdale to Ravenglass.
Ravenglass Roman Bath House
The bathhouse, formerly known as Walls Castle, where legions of Roman soldiers came to wash and spruce up, is one of the best-preserved Roman buildings in the north of England. The walls are surprisingly high at nearly 4 metres (12 ft), with traces of original Roman plaster in situ. Two rooms survive but excavations have revealed more rooms, with hot, warm and cold baths. The earthworks of the adjacent fort can be seen in the field opposite.
Hardknott Roman Fort
This far-flung outpost of the Roman Empire (known as Mediobogdum) guarded the military road between Ravenglass and Ambleside and is magnificently sited on a rocky spur overlooking Eskdale. It was completed in the 2nd century during the reign of Hadrian and garrisoned by troops recruited from Dalmatia, present day Croatia. The ruins are well preserved, thanks to their remote setting, and comprise four gateways and corner towers.
THE LUCK OF MUNCASTER
In 1464, after his defeat at the Battle of Hexham, King Henry VI sought refuge at Muncaster and, as a token of his gratitude, gave the Pennington family his glass drinking bowl with the wish that as long as it remained unbroken the Pennington family would prosper. Happily, the bowl is still intact and a replica can be seen on display in the castle.
HERDWICK SHEEP
This hardy hill breed of the central Lakeland fells is ideally suited to withstand the harsh Cumbrian winters. With their distinctive white heads, grey fleeces and sturdy legs, it is difficult to mistake the Herdwick for any other type of sheep. Over time, shepherds instilled a ‘hefting’ instinct in the breed, which ensured they stayed within their ‘home’ patch on the fells. Brotherikeld Farm, at the head of Eskdale, was one of the original ‘herdwycks’, and today, it is one of the largest Herdwick farms in the Lake District.
TOM FOOL
In the 1600s, Tom Skelton was the court jester (or fool) at Muncaster, but his exploits earned him a more sinister reputation. If travellers were discourteous to him, he was known to direct them onto the quicksands of the estuary. He is also believed to have murdered the castle’s carpenter and hacked off his head. These acts gained him a notorious reputation and brought a new word into the English language – ‘tomfoolery’.
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