Eric Robson's Kirkby Stephen...

A couple of snapshots to give you an idea of the sheer variety of devilish delights to be found in and around Kirkby Stephen.

First, and just a short walk from the town centre, the spectacular gorge carved by the infant River Eden under the bridge at Stenkrith. Ever since the last ice age, pebbles washed down by the river have scoured out holes in the rock. The noise of this place is extraordinary. So much so that the largest sculpted bowl in the river bed is known as the devil's mustard mill. Spice up your visit.

If you want gentler head for the town square, the parish church and the magnificent tomb of Thomas, Lord Wharton. If you're not so taken by tombs as I am I apologise in advance. But this one is a belter with Lord Wharton flanked by his two wives and his head resting on his helmet which is decorated by a bull's head - symbol of the vanquished mustard-grinding devil. Which explains the delightful spoof translation of the tomb's Latin inscription.

Here I, Thomas Wharton, do lie,
With Lucifer under my head:
And Nelly my wife hard by,
And Nancy as cold as lead.
Oh, how can I speak without dread,
Who could my sad fortune abide?
With one devil under my head,
And one lying down at each side.