Ullswater - Lakeland's Finest Lake?

Start/Finish: GR 387 188
Distance: 6 miles
Time: 2.5 hrs
Map: OS Outdoor Leisure (1:25,000) - sheet: 5
Contact: To find out more about canoe hire for Ullswater visit: www.lakescanoeandkayak.co.uk or telephone: 01768 486465

Many will assert that Ullswater is Lakeland's finest lake - and they'd have a point. Certainly, of all the district's many lakes it is surrounded by the most varied of landscapes - from the high fells of the Helvellyn Range in the west to the rural views around Pooley Bridge in the east with woodland, cottage and dry stone wall in between. It never fails to engage with its views.

Ullswater's name is possibly based on Old Norse and named for a Nordic chief 'Ulf' who ruled over the area. Alternatively there was also a Saxon Lord of Greystoke called 'Ulphus' whose land bordered the lake. Both could have given their name, but the truth is lost in the mists of the Dark Ages.

Although a geographer would term it as a classic glacially formed "ribbon lake", its shoreline is more complex than usual with a fascinating collection of ice scoured rock, truncated spurs, lonely coves and rock headlands. It is Lakeland's second largest lake and is some nine miles long and three quarter of a mile wide. From the map you can see it take the form of an elongated "Z" with three distinct segments, or "reaches". It is this form, and the rugged landscape that surrounds it, that gives it a real sense of wilderness and hidden places. Given its size and complexity it can be a bit of challenge knowing where to start, but for a good first trip look to the western reach.

Ullswater doesn't have a hire facility for canoes or kayak at the lake, but if you don't have your own craft don't worry - just check out the Fact File. It's also worth noting that the lake is subject to strong winds, which can be funnelled by the terrain - best to leave paddling on it for a calm day

The lay-bye by Glencoyne Bridge give good access to the lake - you may need to get there early on a summer's day to secure a place and you will need to take care crossing the road, but that apart it's a great place to set off from. To your west Sheffield Pike and beyond that Helvellyn rises up to act as a stunning backdrop. But what lies in front of your bows as you paddle to the eastern shore is equally beguiling. From the headland below Roscombe Rigg in the north to the outflow of Goldrill Beck in the south lies an exciting and varied shoreline. To explore it, head north east across the lake from Glencoyne Bridge to Scalehowe Wood.

From Scalehowe Wood shadow the shore south wes,t past Low Birk Fell to Silver Bay. The woodland is still the original and comprise of native species - so different from the uniformity of so many of the coniferous plantations to be found elsewhere in the Lake District. This is how much of the area wood have looked before man - in the Iron Age - starting clearing the countryside for agriculture.

In time you'll reach Silver Point and the shoreline changes to an altogether more rugged prospect. Truncated Spurs - crags gouged away by the glacier - rise near vertically out of the lake and, given calm conditions, you'll be able to paddle close and enjoy the contrast between rock and water. At Devil's Chimney the rock form is really spectacular.

The wooded peninsular of Purse Point is a good place for lunch and is also worth paddling close in, to enjoy the rock architecture of its western end. From Blowick Bay the scenery becomes more modest so this is a good place to head out onto the lake to explore the island of Cherry Holm, before paddling due south to explore the mouth of Goldrill Beck. There's always something fascinating about moving water joining with still.

This is the place to had home from, to complete the circumnavigation of Ullswater's western reach and as you clear the landing stage for Ullswater Steamers and Glenridding you can look you're your right shoulder to take a final view of the magnificent lake shore you've just been close in with.