climbing in glenridding
Nestled in the eastern side of the Lakes, this area is centred around the picturesque upper reaches of Ullswater. Not especially kind to the roadside warrior, the best value for climbers here mostly involves more than a half hour's walk.
Put in the effort however, and you'll unlock the secret of some of the Lake District's hidden gems. And for those operating in the upper grades, venues such as Dove Crag and Raven Crag shouldn't be missed - three star routes, three star locations.
The climbing is split by how energetic you may feel: Roadside, Less Than 30 minute Walk, or The Full Mountain Experience and we've described each crag, given basic approach information and recommended some top routes. Beyond that we recommend you buy the appropriate guidebook for each area, published by the Fell & Rock Climbing Club and available in most outdoor shops.
Roadside
Gowbarrow Crag (GR 414205)
A pleasant location just above the Pooley Bridge to Patterdale lakeside road, Gowbarrow has three buttresses with the most worthwhile routes on the middle crag. South facing with single pitch routes on mostly good rock.
Access: Park in a lay-by beneath the crag (other options close by), with a path leading straight to the lower crag.
Recommended route: The Whistler (MVS), Please Release Me (VS), Mike's Dilemma (MVS), Susan (HVS), es: Girdle Traverse (HVS).
Thrang Crags
Deceptively steep, these small crags give excellent single-pitch routes on good rock. A good reach seems to be a useful asset here.
Access: From Pooley Bridge, follow the road through Howtown to Martindale where the crags are evident on the west side of the valley. Permission to climb on Farm Buttress must be sought from the farm.
Recommended routes: Desperate Remedies (E4), Microcosm (E1), Stern Test (E5), The Lurcher (HVS), Far From The Madding Crowd (E1), Jude The Obscure (E1), Friends Beyond (E2).
Less than 30 minutes walk
Sorry - you're either next to the road, or you're in for a full day in the hills!
The full mountain experience
Eagle Crag (GR 357143)
Overlooking the Grisedale valley, Eagle Crag is a major venue that offers a good mix of routes in a fine setting. The South Crag is the main climbing buttress.
Access: From Patterdale follow the track up the valley with the crag clearly visible on Nethermost Pike's east ridge.
Recommended routes: Kestrel Wall (S), Pericles (HVS), Sobrenada (VS), Soliloquy (E1), Morning Slab (HVS), Burdock (VS), Doctor's Grooves (HS).
Dove Crag (GR 376109)
Some crags come back into fashion from time to time and Dove Crag is one of them, with its unbelievable central overhanging wall containing a clutch of top-quality, hard, sustained test pieces. There's tradition too in Westmorland's Route, a historic classic.
Access: Best approached from the Brotherswater Hotel - go through the campsite to Hartsop Hall, follow the right-hand path up the hillside and keep on going.
Recommended routes: Fast and Furious (E5), Bucket City (E6), Fear and Fascination (E5), Vlad the Impailer (E7), Bucket Dynasty (E6), Hangover (HVS), Asolo (E3), Extol (E2), Aurora (E3), Phobos (E2), Dovedale Groove (E1), Westmorland's Route (HS).
Raven Crag, Threshthwaite (GR 419112)
A fine crag to visit if you're going well, or regularly leading the mid E grades. Otherwise probably best to give it a miss. For those cruising E3 or above this is arguably the best crag in the eastern Lakes with a superb collection of exposed, technical routes on excellent rock. South east facing, so often sunny.
Access: Park at Hartsop, just off the Patterdale to Kirkstone road, and follow Pasture Beck up the valley. The crag appears after about 30 minutes up on the right, follow a path to the base.
Recommended routes (there's an obvious car theme running): Grand Prix (E3), Internal Combustion (E6), Top Gear (E4), Redex (E2), GTX (E3), Running on Empty (E4), Liquid Engineering (E5), High Performance (E5).
