climbing in coniston
The climbing is split by how energetic you may feel: Roadside, Less Than 30 minute Walk, or The Full Mountain Experience and we've described each crag, given basic approach information and recommended some top routes. Beyond that we recommend you buy the appropriate guidebook for each area, published by the Fell & Rock Climbing Club and available in most outdoor shops.
Roadside
Hodge Close Quarry (GR 316017)
An impressive hole with a deep pool that's popular with divers. Focus of the Lakes slate ‘scene' with some famous classics but no longer as popular, possibly due to ageing fixed protection on some routes. Best routes are in the upper grades. Linked to Parrock Quarry with its shorter bolted routes.
Access: From the A593 Coniston to Ambleside road 3km north of Coniston, take the second minor road L (signposted ‘Hodge Close only'), follow this to park next to the quarry.
Recommended routes: Calling The Shots (E4), Sideshow (E2), First Night Nerves (E5), Ten Years After (E4), Wicked Willie (E5), Life In The Fast Lane (E5), Limited Edition (E4), Malice In Wonderland (E3).
Tilberthwaite Quarry (GR 305008)
A more amenable slate quarry with some excellent routes at all grades, mostly trad but with the odd bolt thrown in.
Access: From the A593 Coniston to Ambleside road 3km north of Coniston, take the minor road running L up the western side of the valley, park at the car park by the bridge and spoil heaps.
Recommended routes: Kick Off (HVS), Christmas Cracker (HS), Anvil Arete (E2), Megabyte (E4), Look Sharp (E2).
Less than a 30 minute walk
Wallowbarrow Crag (GR 222967)
A fine valley crag in a beautiful setting with some classic routes, mainly in the middle grades, offering quality wall climbing on clean fast-drying rock.
Access: Half way up the Duddon Valley. From the valley road heading north, take a minor road from the bridge 1.5km south of Seathwaite. Park and walk up from the farm.
Recommended routes: Western Wall (MVS), Malediction Direct (VS), The Plumb (VS), Bryanston (MVS), Thomas (S), Kestrel (HVS), Guinevere (E2), Grey Wall (E1), Nameless (MS), Digitation (MVS), Trinity Slabs (VD).
Seathwaite Buttress (GR 229964)
A small, popular crag in the Duddon Valley giving pleasant climbing on good rock.
Access: From Seathwaite Church take the church path past Wallowbarrow Farm then strike up to the crag.
Recommended routes: Snap (D), Crackle (S), Seathwaite Buttress Direct (HVS), Pop (HS).
Burnt Crag (GR 243991)
The best crag in the Duddon Valley for the hard climber. Quick-drying and offering fine lines on steep, compact rock.
Access: Park by the cattle grid south of Troutal. Follow the track through several gates then strike rightwards up the hillside to a gate. Go diagonally left for 20 mins.
Recommended routes: Double Trouble (E3), Shifter (E3), Innocenti (E3), Burning Desire (E5).
The full mountain experience
Dow Crag (GR 264977)
One of the Lake District's major crags, Dow offers excellent multi-pitch routes of all grades on generally excellent rock and in fine positions. There's a sense of history with many classic routes forged by each generation. Savour the exposure on the upper sections!
Access: In Coniston take the steep minor road opposite the garage (signposted ‘Walna Scar track') and park at the end. Follow the Walna Scar track westwards to Goat's Water, then grit your teeth and head up the scree.
Recommended routes: Too many to mention! A small selection: Arete, Chimney and Crack (HS), Eliminate A (VS), Giant's Crawl (D), Nimrod (E1), Holocaust (E4), Leopard's Crawl (HVS), Murray's Direct (VS), The Shining Path (E5), Eliminate C (VS).
Little How Crag (GR 274996)
A beautiful small crag positioned above Levers Water in the Coppermines Valley, with rough sound rock. You're unlikely to queue for routes!
Access: Park at the Walna Scar gate as for Dow Crag, but take the track heading north west - the approach takes about an hour.
Recommended routes: Sunshine Arete (D), Thunder Slab (HS), Thunderclap (HVS), Greased Lightning (HVS).
Great Blake Rigg (GR 259995)
A large crag overlooking Seathwaite Tarn, with good rock and excellent positions. The climbing is on several buttresses.
Access: From Troutal take the path to Seathwaite Tarn. Follow the path alongside the N side of the tarn, then strike up the fellside.
Recommended routes: The Gangway (HS), Dressed For Success (MVS), Thor (HVS), The Grey Buttress (VS), Just Good Friends (E2), Laypincher (E2).
