climbing in ambleside
Bowfell, Gimmer, Pavey Ark - all playgrounds for generations of climbers, and with good reason. Great rock, great positions and great pubs - what more could you ask for?
The climbing is split by how energetic you may feel: Roadside, Less Than 30 minute Walk, or The Full Mountain Experience and we've described each crag, given basic approach information and recommended some top routes. Beyond that we recommend you buy the appropriate guidebook for each area, published by the Fell & Rock Climbing Club and available in most outdoor shops.
BMC Warning: Loose rock on Raven Crag, Langdale
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Roadside
Raven Crag, Walthwaite (GR 325057)
Spot on for an evening or a short visit, Raven Crag sits just above Chapel Stile in Langdale and features a good mix of single-pitch routes on mostly good rock. South facing, so climbable most of the year.
Access: Take the minor road from Chapel Stile to Grasmere and park considerately below the crag.
Recommended routes: Route 1 (S), Enterprize (VS), Route 2 (HS), Deuterus (E1), Tritus (HVS), Protus (HVS), Walthwaite Gully (VS).
Scout Crag (GR 298069)
Originally a Langdale ‘beginner's crag' the addition of several quality routes in the higher grades has broadened this crag's appeal.
Access: Park near the New Dungeon Ghyll and take a path from the roadside barn up to the crags.
Recommended routes: Cub's Crack (S), Cub's Groove (VD), Madonna (E1), Blondie (E3), Elvis (E5), Route 1 (VD), Route 2 (VD), Zero Route (VD), Salmon Leap (VS).
Helm Crag (GR 327087)
Just outside the village of Grasmere, this small crag features some steep routes on clean rock. Somewhat tougher than first appearances may suggest.
Access: Park in the pay and display beyond the Butharlyp Howe YHA and walk along the valley track to the crag.
Recommended routes: Beacon Rib (E1), Flarepath Direct (E1), Flarepath (VS), Spectrum (VS), Rainbow (HVS).
Less than a 30 minute walk
White Ghyll (GR 298072)
Just on the half-hour mark from the Stickle Barn, although the gully ascent seems to go on forever. A cracking Langdale venue with stacks of great routes, from testing single-pitch climbs through to mountaineering classics. Don't sit under the crag without a helmet!
Access: From the Stickle Barn car park follow the Stickle Ghyll path across a wooden bridge, cross another slate bridge then 50m after a gate turn right across the base of the wood. Follow this until the ghyll is reached, then grit your teeth and head upwards.
Recommended routes: Where to start? Heather Groove (S), Inferno (MVS), Do Not Direct (E1), Waste Not, Want Not (E1), Laugh Not (HVS), Man of Straw (E1), Slip Knot (VS), White Ghyll Wall (VS), Perhaps Knot (HVS), The Gordian Knot (VS), White Ghyll Eliminate (E2), Haste Knot (VS), White Ghyll Chimney (S), The Slabs, Route 1 (S).
Raven Crag (GR 285064)
Easy access, a fine collection of routes, good rock and a pub just below. What's not to like? The crags stretch across the fellside above the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel in Langdale and hold fine routes of Diff through to E8.
Access: Park at the Old Dungeon Ghyll and wander up to the crag, hands in pockets.
Recommended routes: Middlefell Buttress (D), Mendes (VS), Evening Wall (S), Original Route (S), Holly Tree Direct (HVS), Pluto (HVS), Trilogy (E5), Dawes Rides A Shovel Head (E8), Centrefold (E6), R'n'S Special (E5), Bilberry Buttress (VS), Revelation (HS), Centipede (S), Mamba (S), Rowan Tree Groove (HVS), Baskerville (VS).
Black Crag (GR 274037)
This may be a small crag but it has some of the best quality rock in the Lake District. The routes, though short, are outstanding. Combine this with a sunny aspect and fantastic views, and you've got one of the best cragging venues in the area.
Access: Park close to the Three Shire Stone at the top of the Wrynose Pass. Follow the Red Tarn path north-west for 750m then head off right towards Pike of Blisco summit - the crag will come into view.
Recommended routes: Sleep on my Pillow (E1), Three (VS), Blind (VS), Mice (VS), Slipshod (HVS), Yellow Fever (E2), The First Touch (E1), Stop Showing Off (HVS), Needle Arete (E3), Skye Ridge (VD), Glass Slipper (E2).
Long Scar (GR 272036)
Situated close to Black Crag, Long Scar features easier routes on great rock in a relaxed setting. Also south-west facing, so it catches the sun.
Access: Park close to the Three Shire Stone at the top of the Wrynose Pass. Follow the Red Tarn path north-west for 1km, the crag is just above the path on the right.
Recommended routes: Old Holborn (M), Sam's Saunter (VD), Forrudd (MVS), Katie's Dilemma (S), Roundup (HS), Dot's Delight (VD).
The full mountain experience
Pavey Ark (GR 285079)
One of Langdale's major crags, Pavey Ark can look vegetated and damp on first inspection. Don't believe it - the ‘damp' streaks are usually dry and Pavey's rock quality is second to none, especially in the upper section above Jack's Rake. Home to classic routes from Moderate to E9, the crag faces south-east so dries quickly and catches the sun.
Access: Couldn't be easier for a mountain crag. Park near the Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, walk up the path to Stickle Tarn then follow the shoreline anticlockwise to the crag.
Recommended routes: Cruel Sister (E3), Arcturus (E1), Capella (E1), Crescent Slabs (S), Crescent Climb (M), Rake End Wall (VS), Rake End Chimney (D), Cook's Tour (VD), Rectangular Slab (VS), Aardvark (E1), Golden Slipper (HVS), Mother Courage (E4), Impact Day (E9), Sixpence (E6), Astra (E2), Fallen Angel (E4), Cascade (HVS).
Gimmer Crag (GR 277070)
Arguably the showpiece of Langdale climbing and one of the UK's best crags, Gimmer dominates Mickleden with its grey buttresses and slabs. Its exposed position means it can feel chilly, but on a summer's day there's no better place to be - the breadth of routes means it rarely feels too busy. Fine positions, excellent rock, legendary routes and a stunning location - there's just the arduous approach to contend with!
Access: From the Old Dungeon Ghyll walk up towards Raven Crags taking a left fork just after the slab bridge, go over a stile then zig-zag up the scree until the path levels out somewhat and the crag comes into view. Alternatives are to walk up Mickleden then strike directly up to the crag (gruelling), or climb Middlefell Buttress on Raven Crags to gain height before scrambling up and striking left to the crag.
Recommended routes: Nearly everything! A selection: Main Wall Climb (VD), Gimmer Chimney (VD), Bracket and Slab Climb (S), ‘A' Route (MS), ‘B' Route (S), ‘C' Route (S), ‘D' Route (S), Springbank (E2), Whit's End Direct (E1), ‘F' Route (VS), Eastern Hammer (E3), Equus (E2), Kipling Groove (HVS), Ash Tree Slabs (VD), Intern (E1), North-West Arete (VS), Gimmer String (E1), The Crack (VS).
Neckband Crag (GR 256062)
On the Bowfell side of upper Langdale, Neckband Crag is a hidden gem featuring fine groove and crack climbing on mostly single pitch routes, all on excellent rock. Well worth the walk in.
Access: From the Old Dungeon Ghyll walk past Stool End Farm and up The Band. After about an hour the path levels, follow a faint path rightwards around a hillock then descend steeply to the crag.
Recommended routes (there's a bit of a shaving/Tolkien theme going on): Sweeney Todd (E2), Cravat (VS), Aragorn (E2), Gandalf's Groove Direct (E2), Mithrandir (HVS), Cut Throat (E3), Tracheotomy (E2), Gillette Direct (E2), Razor Crack (E1), Close Shave (E4), Adam's Apple (HVS), The Gizzard (VS).
Flat Crags (GR 249064)
A relatively small crag in a big location, Flat Crags boasts some of the hardest routes in Langdale. You'll get the most out of this location if you're cruising E2 and above, and for those happy on this terrain there's some of these best single-pitch climbs in the Lakes. Technical, sustained and superb.
Access: From the Old Dungeon Ghyll follow the approach to Bowfell via the Climbers' Traverse. At the northern end, Flat Crags forms the eastern edge of the Great Slab.
Recommended routes: Hanging Corner (HVS), Ataxia (E5), 1984 (E5), Fastburn (E2), Flat Iron Wall (E1), Slowburn (E2), Moon Shadow (E1), Mary Ann (VD).
Bowfell Buttress (GR 246067)
A classic mountain crag, Bowfell Buttress stands high and proud overlooking the upper reaches of Mickleden. Many routes are over 100m in length and together with the approach, offer a suitable mountaineering day in a wonderful setting. North east facing, so often cold if outside the summer season.
Access: From the Old Dungeon Ghyll walk past Stool End Farm and up The Band. After about an hour the path levels. Head up the ridge path on the right then cross scree to gain the Climbers' Traverse. Stay close to the base of Flat Crags, traverse the base of the Great Slab past Cambridge Crag and Bowfell Buttress is across scree on the right.
Recommended routes: Bowfell Buttress (VD) of course. Also The Central Route (HS), Bowfell Buttress Eliminate (E2), Ledge and Groove (VD), Air on a Bowstring (E3), Woolly Jumper (HVS), Right Wall Eliminate (E1), Right-Hand Wall (VS), Grey Rib (MVS).
